Pelargoniums are native to much warmer climates, so they aren’t built to cope with prolonged cold, damp conditions. In the UK, winter brings a combination of low temperatures, reduced light, and high moisture levels, all of which can damage or kill the plant.

Frost is the biggest issue. Even a light frost can cause cell damage in the leaves and stems, leading to collapse. Overwintering is about removing that risk entirely by bringing plants into a controlled, frost-free environment where they can rest rather than struggle to survive.

The timing is less about the calendar and more about temperature. As soon as night temperatures begin to drop towards 5°C, it’s time to act.

Leaving it too late increases the risk of cold damage, which can weaken the plant before winter has even begun. Bringing them in early allows you to control conditions properly and gives the plant a better chance of coming through winter in good health.

Preparation is what makes overwintering successful. Simply moving plants indoors without any pruning or checks often leads to poor results.

Cutting plants back helps reduce stress and removes any weak or damaged growth. At the same time, checking for pests and refreshing compost gives you a clean starting point. This process isn’t about forcing growth, it’s about stabilising the plant so it can sit comfortably through winter.

Pelargoniums need a balance of light, airflow, and protection. A bright, frost-free greenhouse is ideal because it provides natural light without exposing plants to harsh conditions.

Indoors can also work, but the key is avoiding overly warm or poorly ventilated spaces. Too much heat can encourage weak, leggy growth at a time when the plant should be slowing down. A cool, bright position keeps plants healthy without pushing them out of their natural rhythm.

Watering needs drop significantly once growth slows. In winter, pelargoniums are far more likely to suffer from overwatering than from drying out.

The compost should be allowed to dry slightly between waterings. This prevents root rot, which is one of the most common reasons overwintered plants fail. The aim is to keep the plant just ticking over, not actively growing.

Feeding isn’t necessary during winter because the plant isn’t actively growing. Adding nutrients at this stage can actually do more harm than good, encouraging soft growth that is vulnerable to pests and disease.

Feeding should resume in early spring, when light levels increase and the plant naturally begins to grow again. This timing supports stronger, healthier development heading into the growing season.

Yes, and October is one of the best times to do it. Taking cuttings before winter gives you a backup in case mature plants struggle, and it’s also a reliable way to produce fresh, vigorous plants for the following year.

Cuttings root well in stable, protected conditions, and by spring, they are often stronger and more productive than older plants. It’s a simple step that adds resilience to your growing setup.

Most overwintering problems come down to moisture and airflow rather than temperature alone. Plants kept too wet or in stagnant air are far more prone to rot, mould, and pest issues.

Even in a greenhouse or indoor space, conditions need to be balanced. Good airflow, controlled watering, and a stable environment make the difference between plants surviving winter and actually thriving when spring arrives.